Milan in September is always alive with the rhythm of Fashion Week: shows, parties, and the usual swirl of paparazzi, influencers and headlines. Yet, just a few streets away from the catwalks, inside the MUDEC – Museo delle Culture, a different kind of conversation was unfolding. The first of its kind RLC Fashion Summit gathered some of the sharpest minds in luxury and fashion for an exchange that felt urgent, candid and, at times, even electric. Instead of spotlighting collections, the focus was on the forces reshaping the business side of the industry itself: from AI and emerging markets to craftsmanship, culture, and the next generation of consumers.
Here are five takeaways that captured the spirit of the Summit:
- Why this isn’t a luxury crisis
Despite headlines about a slowdown, panelists reminded the audience that luxury is entering a transitional period rather than a downturn. Stefania Lazzaroni, CEO of Fondazione Altagamma, a key partner of the event, pointed out that while certain segments—particularly those overexposed to the Chinese market—are struggling, the overall high-end market has grown 16% since 2019.
The real challenge is polarization: ultra-high-net-worth clients remain resilient and demand deeper emotional connections, while aspirational consumers are being squeezed by inflation and geopolitical pressures. Giuseppe Santoni, chairman of Santoni Group, emphasized that winning brands must go beyond flawless products to create “meraviglia,” moments of wonder, through craftsmanship and experience
Takeaway: Forget volume growth. The future of luxury will be defined more by emotional value, storytelling and a renewed emphasis on quality.
- AI as fashion’s new creative partner
Artificial Intelligence dominated discussions throughout the RLC Fashion Summit, with Professor Emanuela Prandelli of Bocconi University outlining its dual role: enhancing customer relationship management (CRM) and augmenting creativity.
AI, she argued, can help brands reconnect with the aspirational consumer segment—younger shoppers who may not be VICs but still drive brand relevance. Through personalization at scale, predictive analytics, and location intelligence, AI can reduce churn and re-ignite engagement. At the same time, generative AI is emerging as a tool to support, not replace, creative directors, enabling them to leverage archives, reinterpret design codes, and test new ideas.
A striking example came from an experiment with Missoni: T-shirt designs generated from “discarded” creative ideas using AI not only resonated with consumers but outsold the human-designed versions by more than 100%.
Takeaway: AI’s role in fashion is about amplifying both creativity and customer connection and turning data into design inspiration and engagement into revenue.
- The markets fashion can’t afford to ignore
From Latin America to the Middle East, growth opportunities are shifting away from traditional luxury strongholds. Jaume Miquel Naudi, Chairman & CEO of Tendam, and Fabio Faccio, CEO of Lojas Renner, highlighted the importance of building resilient business models that adapt to diverse geographies and consumer bases.
Naudi described how Tendam pivoted post-Covid by launching niche brands and leveraging loyalty clubs, while Faccio detailed Brazil’s transformation into a digitally integrated retail ecosystem. Both stressed the centrality of AI-driven analytics and agile supply chains to capture fast-moving consumer tastes.
Meanwhile, PwC’s Erica Andreetta emphasized that “growth in fashion” will increasingly come from fragmented consumer segments and overlooked geographies, not just global megacities.
Takeaway: Fashion companies must balance scale with specificity; expanding internationally while tailoring offerings to local tastes and infrastructures.
- Why all eyes are on Riyadh, Doha and the Middle East
Few regions drew as much attention as the Middle East. A live poll during the Summit showed 62% of participants believe it will drive the most significant fashion growth in the coming years.
Georges Barakat, Head of Market & Commercial Strategy – Retail, Local Real Estate Investment Division at Saudi Arabia’s Public Investment Fund, described a market in overdrive. With 65% of Saudis under 35, the Kingdom is fast becoming a global magnet for luxury. Through projects like Diriyah and New Murabba, the PIF is building what he called “the new downtowns of the Gulf.” His message to brands: enter now. It won’t stay underserved for long.
From Qatar, Shane Eldstrom, CEO of United Developers, shared a similar surge. In just two years, Place Vendôme Doha has captured 74% of the country’s luxury fashion sales, driven by local shoppers and rising tourism. He said brands are shifting from franchise deals to direct, immersive retail.
Michael Chalhoub, CEO of the Chalhoub Group, framed the region as a home market, not a stopover. Consumers are now spending locally, backed by tax perks, world-class retail, and a hunger for innovation. His advice: invest directly and treat Riyadh, Doha, and Dubai as distinct markets.
Takeaway: The Gulf is no longer a peripheral luxury market; it is becoming a central stage where global brands must be present, adaptive, and engaged.
- The future of luxury is emotion
When asked what will define luxury in the next decade, the audience chose “emotional connection with customers” above price, design, or even heritage.
Speakers echoed this sentiment throughout the Summit. For Santoni, luxury is about creating the unexpected wonder that customers remember. For Chalhoub, emotional authenticity is non-negotiable: a single PR misstep can damage a brand for years. Across sessions, the message was clear: luxury consumers no longer just buy products; they buy meaning, experiences, and belonging.
From 90-minute delivery promises during Ramadan to immersive omni-channel experiences, the future of luxury lies in embedding emotional resonance at every touchpoint.
Takeaway: In an era of rising prices and saturated markets, emotional connection is the ultimate differentiator for luxury brands.
